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This is part 2 of 5 on our journey through Iceland. In this portion of our trip we not only got to see several waterfalls, but we also got to experience many different unique aspects of Iceland: from waterfalls, caves, black sand beaches, lava fields, and glaciers, the variety was both exciting and impressive.
If you missed part 1, you can check it out here.
The parent post, where all the links to subsequent parts is available here.
Day 3 – Waterfalls and Vik
Seljalandsfoss
This waterfall is definitely one of the more popular falls to visit. Unlike most of the other places we’ve visited so far, the parking lot was completely full. We had to wait in line in our car to finally nab a spot, and join the line of people excited to walk behind the waterfall, this fall’s defining feature.
Over-spray from the waterfall created some slippery rocks, but aside from that and the line, it’s a quick trip behind the waterfall, unless you are waiting for the 2nd line to take a picture on the rock.
Skógafoss
Back behind the wheel of the RAV4, and on to our next waterfall, Skogafoss. This waterfall has two main viewpoints. The first that we went for was the stairway to the top where you can see several smaller cascades as well as the top of Skogafoss. The second is at the base of the falls, where you need to navigate a few rocks to get in a good spot for a shot in front of the falls with the occasional rainbow when everything aligns: The sun coming out, a gust of wind casting the spray into the air to catch the light, and being in the right spot for all of it to line up.
If you are more adventurous, the trail continues on past the top of the waterfall and can extend into a multi-hour or even multi-day hike.
The stairs weren’t too bad, although there were a lot of them, and many exhausted people only a third of the way up. Our son, in a surprising burst of energy, climbed all the stairs himself, with plenty of energy left at the top.
Loftsalahellir Cave
A quick stop before our final destination of the day, Loftsalahellir cave is situation just off of the ring road and a tiny dirt parking lot. A few minutes up a short but steep climb and then a pretty view looking out from the cave.
Dyrhólaey
Not far from Loftsalahellir is Dyrholaey, which every online description is quick to inform us that it is a promontory with a light house. When we got there it was clear that the upper parking lot was full, and many cars were parked alongside the winding road up to the top, so I chose to park on the side of the road and we all walked up from there. Being higher elevation and right next to the coast, we quickly discovered that the wind was pretty intense.
We also quickly discovered that not only were the puffins taking advantage of the high wind to glide, but they were REALLY GOOD at it. My opinion of them jumped up pretty quickly when I saw how fast they could glide, dive, and soar, using the wind to their advantage.
I was pretty enamored with the puffins, so I didn’t really get close to the lighthouse, and my son was dragging me away from the cliff because it was too windy, so that was the end of my visit to Dyrholaey at that point. We waited in the car for the rest of the party to join us.
Kirkjufjara Black Sand Beach
A very short distance away was one of several black beaches in Iceland, Kirkjufjara. We swung by here for a short time just before it started to sprinkle.
Aside from the various rock features there ended up also being a series of Puffin nests on the hillside.
Day 4 – Hofn and South Iceland
Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach
Refreshed on a new day, we headed back for our second black sand beach, only a handful of minutes away from Kirkjufjara the day before. The main feature that was visible and impressive are the large basalt pillars and cave. I know everyone comes to these beaches for the black sand, but I love basalt columns and enjoy seeing them at all the various volcanic sites that I’m able to get to see them, (Devil’s Post Pile was one good trip) and hopefully I’ll someday be able to check out the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. There’s been several deaths at this beach, an in the Winter the waves were pounding the columns, so we were sure to pay attention to the waves. However, we were lucky and it was a very calm sunny day at the beach.
Yoda Cave
We continued our Eastward journey along Iceland’s South Coast, and took a little detour to visit Gigjagja, or Yoda Cave at the base of Hjorleifshofdi Mountain. A gravely road took us here, with a small squared off area to park in. It’s part of private property, and there isn’t much else to see that we hadn’t already seen. The main novelty is the Yoda ears on the top portion of the cave.
Skaftáreldahraun lava field
All the pictures of Skaftáreldahraun lava field have this green mossy surface across all the rocks. However, as we drove over to the viewpoint, the massive lava field was all a rather dull color of grey. And I mean massive. This was a very large stretch of road we were driving through before we got to the viewpoint and it was all just lava fields, with the dull moss growing on top.
Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon
Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon is another hike through some interesting rock formations. The path itself is slippery rocks and gravel, and there’s a fairly large parking lot for the large amount of visitors making the climb.
Jökulsárlón
We drove a little under an hour and 40 minutes East to reach our next destination, and the stark difference in temperatures was surprising. Jökulsárlón Glacier Lake has formed from the nearby melting glacier and unlike the canyon with the warm sun upon us despite a strong breeze, the air here felt bitingly cold. This lake has been the location for at least four movies, including James Bond, Lara Croft, and Batman.
Jokulsarlon proved to be quite popular, with a large but mostly filled parking lot. As with most other popular tourist destinations in Iceland so far, they have nice bathrooms, and a gift shop selling food drinks, and various trinkets. We could see amphibious vehicles driving off with tourists packed inside, and several RIBboats speeding around with presumably life guards driving on top of them. Several warning signs about the mere minutes a person would have to survive in the cold water were posted along the shoreline.
Aside from walking to the shoreline to observe the icebergs up close, there’s a short hilly path that gives a larger overview of the lake and nearby glacier.
A Dinner in Hofn at Pakkhús for some tasty seafood and we ended our day in Hofn.
Day 5 – To the Eastfjords
After spending the night at in Hotel Hofn, it was time to continue our trek East along the Southern edge of the coast.
Stokksnes Peninsula
First stop along the Stokksnes Peninsula: a true, real life, authentic, viking village! No, it’s just an abandoned film set. We traversed a long gravel road to get to the Viking Cafe, where we paid to enter the rest of the area
Viking Village (Film Set)
. First we stopped at the Viking Village, which required us to walk 6 minutes from the parking lot to check it out.
Stokksnes Beach
Another black sand beach was a short drive along the same road on the peninsula. Stokksnes Beach. One of the best features of this beach was its reflective sands, which given the right light and angle, gives a beautiful effect.
Short Stop in Djúpivogur
We left Stokksnes behind and our journey began the Northern climb up the Eastern coast at this point. We’ve already been driving a lot this day, and from Stokksnes we were looking at another 2 hours 45 minutes to our next stay in the dual towns of Egilsstaðir and Fellabær across the river. So, in order not to complete deplete my own energy stores, the plan was to make a pit stop in Djupivogur.
Relaxing in the Hot Springs of Vök Baths
We made an early decision before the trip that we would do hot springs at least once. We decided to look at something less crazy than the Blue Lagoon so that we could afford it and potentially not deal with as many tourists. Enter the Vok Baths.
Situated up against Urriðavatn lake, there are 3 main pools, at different temperatures. There’s also a ladder directly into the lake, so of course I had to jump in there several times for a refreshing plunge.
There’s many nice things to say about the Vok baths. You can get some refreshing herbal tea before your plunge, there are easy to use lockers in the changing rooms, a handicap accessible ramp straight from the changing rooms into the hot baths, and even a swim/walk-up bar!
To make sure we were not dehydrated, an always-on fountain of fresh Icelandic water was available for us to take easy sips from.
With the warm water to relax our muscles, were ready to continue our adventures for the next several days.
If you made it this far without remembering to read part one, check it out now!
- Introduction Post: Beyond the Golden Circle: A Family’s Journey Around Iceland’s Wild Edge
- Part One: Tectonic Rifts, Geysers, and the Blue Water of Bruarfoss
- Part Two: From Waterfalls to Puffins: Exploring Iceland’s South Coast and Eastfjords
- Into the Eastfjords: Puffins, Abandoned Ships, and the Seven-Tiered Klifbrekkufossar
- North Iceland: Basalt Canyons, Whale Watching, and the Waterfall of the Gods
- The Return, Snæfellsnes, and the Unexpected Detour
